I started out by making the frames. I wanted a large panel (36"x40") and small panel (18"x36") and as Tony suggested I used canvas stretcher bars. These bars are made of pine and are strong, lightweight and inexpensive. I picked mine up at Hobby Lobby, but you can find them at any art supply store.
I used some wood glue and corner clamps to construct the frame. You don't need the clamps, but it does help to hold things tight as the glue dries and to keep the frame square.
I let the glue dry overnight and painted it flat white the next day. If left unpainted the wood will be visible when shooting reflective subjects.
The diffusion material I used was Savage Translum Diffusion because it's what I have on hand. Tony used Roscoe 3008 Tough Frost sold in rolls or by the sheet.
I cut a piece of diffusion material about 1" wider than the frame and attached it with staples. You could use double-sided tape to attach the diffusion material as Tony suggested, but I felt staples would be easier to work with.
Once the material was in place I cut the excess off by using a sharp knife and the edge of the frame as a guide.
To hold the panels in place I use microphone stands, pvc pipe and "A" clamps. I like to use mic stands for diffusers and reflectors because they have a small foot print and are adjustable in height. Besides, I have a ton of them.
A quick test shot to see how they perform. I have the large panel (36"x40") on the left and the small panel (18"x36") on the right. Behind the panels I have studio flashes with a 30"x10" softboxes.
The panels do a great job of diffusing the light and provide a soft reflection along the edges of the bottle. This is an easy inexpensive project that delivers a tremendous bang for your buck. A couple of hours, some inexpensive materials and you too can have diffused light just like the pros!
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